How to Paint a Room- B&Q Video

Watch Amazing Video on How to Paint a Room- a B&Q Guide

Before we get down to the really exciting bit of actually on How to Paint a Room and seeing our colour scheme come to life, we need to make sure that all the surfaces we intend on painting have been properly prepared, see our previous films on how to prepare ceilings, walls And interior woodwork before moving on to this stage, don’t skip on the preparation.

If you want a really good paint finish to be proud of, we’re, going to be painting this room with a standard white emulsion on the ceiling. This blue emulsion on the walls and the standard white gloss for the woodwork we’ll, be using this medium power roller and tray for the walls and ceiling.

This small brush for the edges crossing in around the door frames and the edges of the board’s way, Plus this larger brush for the rest of the woodwork you ‘ Ll also need a pink kettle to make it easier.

When you’re off the ladder doing the edges, there are lots of different paint types that all give slightly different finishes. So if you’re unsure pop into your local store for a chat now we start with painting the ceiling, and the reason we do this is that if we spill any paint onto the walls or any of the other woodwork, these can be covered Over at a later stage, within paint, our walls, the window frame, the window sill, the skirting boards and, lastly, the door working our way out of the room to avoid touching any wet pane.

Do the edges where the ceiling meets the wall in one go? If you don’t, do it all at once, you could get a band around the edges where the paint dries at different times, as will be doing the walls. Next, we don’t need to worry about getting paint on them.

Now we’ve done the cutting in it’s, time to pink the rest with a roller and when painting the ceiling always use an extension pole, it shaves your neck and saves you bending up and down. Also, it’s much safer than going up and down on the ladders, start above the window and paint across in overlapping bands.

If you want to take a break, wait until you’ve done the whole ceiling and not halfway through, as you’re, less likely to miss a bit of experiment with how much paint to put on the roller too much and it’ll spray everywhere too little and it won’t.

Give you good coverage. You will get some spray with a roller, so wear old clothes and make sure your carpet is well covered right. That’s. The first coat done. We’d, always suggest, however, to do two coats of a lotion on your ceiling.

This will add a little bit more depth and a more lasting finish now before we start painting, we need to cover up our light switches and our plug sockets. We’re, going to be putting some masking tape over them too, so that we don’t, get any paint on them, use a nice length of masking tape to wrap around the socket, leaving it out like that to act as a Little shield and making sure we cover all sides.

Now, if you’re, not painting your woodwork, you could do exactly the same thing mask off all your woodwork, but we are going to be so it doesn’t matter. Now. It’s a good idea to give your wall two coats of white emulsion as an undercoat before you put your topcoat on.

This is especially true for a newly plastered wall or if you’re painting over a dark colour. If your original wall colour is dark, try using a grey on to coat it neutralizes more than white wood here’s, a top tip paint methodically.

A-W action is a good way to get an even coverage and reduce any lines, and you haven’t got to worry too much about cutting in as we’re, actually using the same color as we’re, going to Be painting our wood now we finished our two coats of undercoat.

It’s now time for the topcoat. Remember this time round. We need to mask up all the woodwork because we don’t want to get any of the top coat onto the white woodwork. Now, from this point, we’re, really going to start to see the transformation of the room we’re, going to start by painting where the sealy meets the wall edge.

This is called the cutting in and applies to all edges working. Our way around the room taking our time, so we get a really nice professional finish. Don’t overload the brush, as you will make it harder to get that nice finish push the brush against the wall like this, not too hard.

Just so the bristles fan out then slowly and steadily work along the edge repeat this process around the room. Now, when you start painting your walls, just as we did with the ceilings always start in a corner near a light source, then working in bands work across the wall.

Remembering your W action try not to take a break halfway through all try and complete the whole wall first. Otherwise, you could get some tired marks and then repeat this process on all your other walls.

Again, it’s advisable to give a minimum of two coats to get a really good finish. Of course, you need to let the first coat dry first and check your tin for drying times, but it’s, usually around two hours top tip.

If you’re painting over a couple of days, there’s, no need to wash your brushes and rollers out. You can wrap the mop in cling film like this or use a plastic bag and secure with a rubber band. Just stop some dry nails.

These will keep for one to two days any longer than that you ‘ Ll have to wash them out now. Once you finish your second coat of emulsion, you’ve allowed things to dry. It’s time to take your masking tape off, starting at the bottom.

Take your time and peel upwards to reveal a lovely, clean edge. It’s, also a good idea as well before you start painting your windows to actually mark the inside of the windows and around any window catches and latches, or you could just take these off now before you apply your gloss to the woodwork you’re, going to need to give it an undercoat using a special undercoat paint for interior would work only starting with your window frames.

Next, you need to paint your window sills and then move across to your skirting boards, then onto your architraves and finish with the door. Do take your time when you’re cutting in again, but don ‘

T worry, if you make a small mistake, as you can touch this up later, when doing the windows, make sure that you open them, you don’t want to paint them short now, once we’ve finished undercoat in all of our Woodwork and we’ve allowed it enough time to dry.

We’re, going to be doing our gloss coat again as we do in our undercoat. We’re, going to be working away all the way around and out of the room, starting with the window frames, the window sill, the skirting boards, the architrave and finally, the door.

We also again need to take special care and attention when we’re cutting in around our woodwork just so we get that nice clean professional finish when doing the final coat paint along the grain of wood, as it will give you a better finish Of course, you may not be able to see the grain, but on skirting boards it will be horizontal along the length and on doors it will be vertical.

We’ve, been using water-based glass here, so wash your brushes out with water. If you’ve been using an oil-based glass, you can wash them out with white spirits or this turpentine substitute, and if you want to keep a brush that you’ve, been using oil-based glass with simply place it into a jam.

Jar of white spirit or tape and time substitute this will keep for a couple of days but remember to keep it out of reach of children once you finish painting all your woodwork always left to do is to allow your glass work to dry.

Now it’s, always worth checking out the tin for drying times, but you can also leave open a window. Not only will this help ventilate the room and get rid of any paint smells, it will speed up the drying process and remember that gloss paint takes longer to dry than the emotions you put on.

The wall now is left to do is to remove the masking tape, yeah, and then you can just marvel at your newly decorated room for more information or know-how, watch more of our films or ghosted.